Hiking matters #802: Climbing Bud Dajo (620m), the historic mountain in Sulu

JOLO, SULU – The day after our successful hike up Bud Tumantangis (see Hiking matters #801), we went on another  hike, this time up Bud Dajo (also spelled Daho), a mountain that is sacred to the Tausug and very historic, being the site of many battles including the First Battle of Bud Dajo in 1906. This infamous battle is described by many historians as a massacre given the scale of barbarity perpetuated by invading American colonial forces, who killed an estimated 800-900 locals, including women and children, even taking pictures of the brutality as ‘war trophies’ . On the other hand, some writers say it should be called a ‘battle’ to underscore the fact that the Tausug forces fought valiantly against all odds. Beyond its historic significance, it is also a natural, forested, sanctuary, making for a pleasant hiking destination – while being ever mindful of what the mountain stands for.

Organizing our hike, once more, was the ever-reliable Najib, who sought the blessing and invaluable support of the 1101st Infantry Brigade, which accompanied us in the hike. After a courtesy call in their HQ, we proceeded to one of many trails of the mountain, Lower Laus, municipality of Talipao. As we prepared to embark on the hike at around 0915H, I reflected on the fact that the the mere possibility of being able to climb Bud Dajo is astounding to locals and visitors alike; even the captain we met in the HQ told us that “just a few years ago, the trail you’re about to climb was a battlefield”.

The hike was mostly steep but delightfully forested all the way, with impressive forest trees gracing the environs. We reached the crater rim at 1044 – just over 1.5 hours, which offered

We then descended to the crater itself, which is the site of the historic battle, and is now marked with commemorative signs. Then we went up to the highest point, which is marked by a wooden bench! There is a military outpost at the top, although, in a sign of the times, it is not being actively used.

The descent was straightforward and by 1300H we were back in the trailhead. Thank you to the 1101st IB, Najib, and everyone who joined this trek. Overall, it is very inspiring to see enthusiasm for the outdoors taking root in Sulu, and its mountains are turning from war zones to hiking destinations. Inshallah, may peace prevail in Sulu and the rest of the Philippines!